South Africa Trip - May 2007

Part 1 - May 3:

After a long flight from NY and overnight in JoBerg, I flew down to Durban with a friend to do an 8 day pre Indaba tour of the coast of Natal. Indaba is my favorite trade show that takes place each year in Durban in May and brings together the major players in the tourist business in Southern and Eastern Africa. While I have been many times to Natal, other than a brief dive trip to Sodwana Bay Lodge 12 years ago, I have not spent much time on the coast north of Durban.

As our flight got in about 2PM I thought it best to not plan on going too far but I wanted to get somewhat closer to our first lodge on Kosi Bay in the northern part of Natal by the Mozambique border. So I took advantage of staying at the Izulu Hotel in Ballito, about 45 minutes north of Durban. Ballito is one of the more upscale beach areas and is now more or less commuting distance to Durban.

The town itself has no real charm but what we could see of the beaches looked very nice. A recent storm and destroyed many buildings and eroded some bits of the beach but presumably it will all come back. The Izulu Hotel is about 3 KM's from the beach set in a lovely garden. The hotel is absolutely beautiful as one would expect of a member of Relais & Chateau. I was only sorry we didn't have more time to spend there as they offer full spa facilities and have a lovely swimming pool.

The rooms are large with separate sitting area and Wi-Fi or broadband connection throughout as well as the usual cable TV selections.

We decided to eat in the hotel so we didn't have run around looking for a restaurant and the meal was excellent. I might add also that the staff was great.

There is no question that as a weekend destination near Durban or a stop on the way up the coast Izulu is well worthwhile.

We were up early the next morning to head to Kosi Bay area and the Kosi Forest Lodge. It is about a 4 hour drive from Ballito so you can add 45 minutes if coming from Durban and probably about 7 hours from JoBerg. The lodge is set in the midst of a lovely forested area near the beach and requires a 4 wheel drive to access but they can arrange to pick up you at the town nearby where you leave your car under the capable watch of the local Total station. They can pick you at noon or 4PM. We had opted for noon as we only had two nights there. It is about a 20 minute drive from Total to the lodge.

Upon arriving they offered us a wonderful lunch of salmon quiche and salad. The cabins are all well placed for privacy in the forest and there is a lovely walk down to the swimming pool which overlooks a lake filled with hippos. The cabins do not have electricity but in the evening are filled with gas lanterns and is very romantic. The shower is outside which is even more romantic! The main lodge where the restaurant, bar and lounge are located does have a generator so there is no problem charging cameras, laptops, etc. And for the most part cell phones seem to work throughout the camp. The managers, Connie and Zoe take excellent care and are really helpful in organizing the activities.

Just after lunch we were whisked off to a canoe ride which involved about a ten minute drive followed by a 15 minute walk through the forest. What they call the forest looks like the rainforests of Uganda and you expect to walk into gorillas or chimps along the way swinging from vines. Unfortunately there is not much wildlife. Other than a red duiker, I didn't see anything though they have bush pigs and reedbuck. The bird life is more prolific but the real attraction is the beauty of the nature. Our canoe ride took us up and down a river that really gave the feeling of being the heart of darkest Africa, not 10 minutes from the Indian Ocean.

The next day we took the "day long" boat trip. Again you drive about 15 minutes, then walk about 15 minutes and finally hop on a power boat and take a cruise over several of the lakes that make up the water system here opening to the ocean. Hippos are a common sight and sometimes crocks. Again birds are more evident than any other type of animal.

After exploring three of the lakes you park the boat and once again jump out and walk about 10 minutes through a sort of dunes type forest to the beach which is absolute beautiful. It is an endless stretch of sand dunes down to the water in both directions.

Here we stopped and were offered a wonderful picnic lunch on the beach and then took a long walk. As we were heading off to the sister property the next day, Tonga Beach Lodge, we decided to save swimming in the ocean till then and eventually headed back to the lodge to enjoy getting some reading done by the pool watching the hippos and then took a 25 minutes hike around the property.

The dinners were wonderful and I would highly recommended Kosi Forest Lodge for a relaxing and beautiful experience. If you are into birds that is an added bonus but the nature makes it well worth coming.

My next stop was the sister property, Tonga Beach Resort. After the 20 minutes drive back to where we left the car, it was then about 30 minutes to where you turn off and leave the car for the Tonga pick up. This takes place at the local cashew factory where they have a store so you can stock up if you like cashews, which I do. From here the drive is about an hour to the lodge in 4 x 4.

Tonga beach is a much more luxurious property than Kosi Forest with electricity, air conditioning, luxury rooms with huge baths, etc. and is set on what has to be one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. The whole coast of Natal is magnificent and seems to stretch all the way to Tanzania, Kenya and presumably beyond.

The lodge has 12 luxury rooms, a small swimming pool, and health spa with a variety of treatments as well as scuba diving, snorkeling, forest walks, kayaking and sundowner's on Lake Sibayia. But the real draw is the beach. Most of the guests just seemed to want to chill out after a week or ten days of safari. No doubt a great way to end a trip to the bush.

I did go scuba diving and the coral and fish life is beautiful. We also saw turtles which come each year from October to January to lay their eggs though otherwise are easily seen all year in the water. Our dive master assured me that they had seen whale sharks the previous two days but we didn't. While the diving is highly recommended, the South African way of getting into the water is best described as more akin to Navy Seal training rather than sport diving. There are no piers or docks so you somehow manage to get your stuff into a large "rubber duck" which is basically a huge rubber Zodiac type boat that sits on the beach. The challenge is to launch this boat into the surf beating against the beach. First the boat has to be turned around facing the sea and then pushed into the sea. This is neither easy nor exactly safe in my opinion but if you are in shape not a problem. If not then you'll manage anyway as there are guys that help. You still have to push out to sea and jump into the boat!! Actually compared with other dives I have done in South Africa this was rather easy!

After two days it was off to the bush and Hluhluwe National Park about 2 hours away. The only full service lodging in the park is Hill Top Camp though there are several other options if you don't mind cooking on your own. While all the government parks offer lodging, the Natal Parks Board provides quite upscale properties in Hluhluwe and a sister park, Itala where I have visited several times and which I highly recommend.

Hill Top's location provides a spectacular view of the park and allows for easy access to a variety of game drives. It has a pool, restaurant, bar, curio/food shop and Internet. Morning and evening game drives as well as morning walks are also offered in open safari vehicles. As we had our own car we choose to drive around on our own. I rather like finding the game on my own though no doubt I miss most animals smaller than an elephant!

We were well rewarded on the 4 drives we did. We literally tripped over white rhino, buffalo and most of the plains animals such as impala, zebra and wildebeest and we saw lots of Nyala, Kudu and giraffe. On our first drive we had a wonderful sitting of a pride of lion lying by a water hole a few feet from two grazing rhinos!! We saw plenty of elephants, some so close you could not zoom out enough to get the whole animal!! On our 2nd day drive we had ten separate rhino sittings!! We also saw several herds of Cape buffalo; one heard numbering in the 100's we had to drive through to get back to the lodge. We also saw a mongoose, red dicker and lots of birds.

Our final day allowed an early morning drive where we saw again a lot of game as well as three hyenas walking down the road. It was really a shame to have to leave.

Hluhluwe is certainly one of, if not, the most beautiful parks in South Africa and if you can arrange to visit it is well worthwhile. The accommodations range from two bed huts to 2- 3 bedroom chalets with living room, kitchen, etc. There is a full bar area as well as a restaurant in the main building. If you prefer to cook yourself, then I would suggest you bring your own supplies. Other than a reasonably good wine selection, the store has only the bare minimum but lots of curios!

My final night on this part of the trip was south of Durban at Selborne Golf and Spa Estate. A beautiful property about 45 minutes south of Durban near the coast. There is a well known golf course and full spa facilities. Selbourne has its own beach club nearby with complementary shuttle. There is a lovely swimming pool area, tennis courts and kids area with their own pool. Needless to say the lounge, bar and restaurant are of the highest standards.

I am not a golfer so I can't speak to the course but it looked beautiful and from what I hear it is first class and the spa has an extensive list of treatments as well as a gym. Selbourne turned out to be a great place to wind down before the start of Indaba.

Part 2 JoBerg, etc.

The Indaba show was, as usual, a terrific trade show experience. I met many current clients and numerous new ones so hopefully this African journal will continue for a long time!

After 5 hectic days in Durban I flew back to meet my girlfriend and her parents in JoBerg for the beginning of a new 12 day adventure. We stayed as we often do at the Inter-continental Palazzo Montecasino in Fourways, as upscale suburb of Johannesburg not far from Sandton City.

The Palazzo is a great hotel in a quiet location and is adjacent to an indoor re-creation of an Italian village in Tuscany. It sounds a bit corny but it really is great if not exactly authentic. The hotel itself being part of the Inter-continental chain is of the highest standards with a restaurant and terrace overlooking the gardens and swimming pool. There is a gym and business center and complementary Wi Fi throughout.

The Village is a two minute walk from the hotel and is set up to look like a small Italian village: the whole place is enclosed so weather is not a factor. There are numerous restaurants of all kinds from several Italian choices, Thai, Japanese, Oriental, steak and barbeque, and Portuguese. There is a collection of boutiques and the center piece is a full casino, hence the name, Montecasino. There is also a theatre where the Lion King was just about to open. And if you are really bored, there is a multiplex movie theatre showing all the latest films with a food court.

Just between the hotel and the Village is my favorite place, the bird aviary. Here you have the opportunity to see up close hundreds of beautiful birds from all over the world and well as a few small animals and reptiles. You actually go into large enclosures with the birds and really get to see and experience them up close. I am hardly a birder but this is a great experience, especially to see the birds that otherwise could be anything until a guide tells you it is such and such.

Whether for business or pleasure, the Palazzo is a relaxing and fun place to stay in JoBerg.

After two nights visiting friends and clients we headed out to the "bush" for part one of the trip. Part two would be Cape Town and the wine route. Our first stop was Dullstrom about two and a half hours drive, about half way to the game lodges we were going to visit. While we have driven the entire trip many times, we had to leave a bit later due to some appointments in JoBerg so we decided to find a place half way. This gave me an excuse to stay at a property I had heard about from many people but never had a chance to visit, Walkersons Lodge and Estate. Dullstrum is known as one of the top fly fishing areas of South Africa and is famous for its trout. I knew as we pulled in and saw the private airstrip and helipad that this was not an ordinary fishing camp!!

I do not fish but I can see why Walkersons is so well known. The area is beautiful and the lodge is really quite special. All the rooms are in two unit chalets and are beautifully decorated and which over look a huge lake full of trout. The lodge has an understated elegance and feeling of the colonial days. They also offer horseback riding, shooting and hiking. There is a swimming pool, restaurant and wonderful bar area.

Just after arriving they came to light the fire in our room making for a very cozy and romantic setting. Dinner was a delicious 4 course meal and the wine selection was quite extensive. Our only regret was that we really had only come to break up the trip and not stay for an extra day.

But after breakfast we were off to our first safari destination, the Royal Malawene Lodge in Thornybush Game Reserve three hours away. The drive was through the mountains along the Blyde River Canyon which if you have time deserves at least a two day visit. We often end our trips with another client whom regular readers will remember, Blue Mountain Lodge.

Royal Malawane is probably the most luxurious and well run lodge that I have visited in Africa and I have been to quite a few!! It is almost impossible to describe but if you go onto their website you'll see why. But that is only part of the picture. The staff from the GM down makes sure every detail is perfect. There is no one explaining why you can't do something, just a feeling that whatever you want, they'll make it happen. That is other than if you ask to see an aardvark!! That they could not come up with.

Each suite is a self-contained mini villa with decks, outdoor lounge and shower and a plunge pool overlooking the bush in front. And while it is over the top luxury it is totally relaxing and functional. Some place are so hi tech as to be impossible to understand and become in essence dysfunctional for the guest. The owner has seen to every detail as she has in her other two properties, La Residence in the Cape Wine area which we visited last year and is being reborn as we speak and Birkenhead House in Hermanus, also near Cape Town, which we will be visiting at the end of the trip.

Having visited two years ago I thought there was nothing to be improved upon but since then they have opened what is considered as the top health spa in southern Africa if not all of Africa. They offer a wide range of treatments, massages, etc. as well as a fully equipped gym. All of this is set around a beautiful swimming pool.

The main building, restaurant and lounge area is overlooking a water hole in a truly beautiful setting. There is also a conference / TV room / library and new this year, Wi Fi in the main area that is expected to expand to the rooms next year. It was quite amazing to be checking email on a high speed connection overlooking the water hole and the game drinking!!!

While Royal Malawane is not cheap, it truly represents great value in the top lodge category and it offers an all inclusive experience from wine to the mini bar: there is nothing extra to pay unless you invade the boutique! If there is a drawback it is that Thornybush Reserve doesn't always allow you to see the game as easily as some other places due to all the thorn bushes where the animals can hide. Having said that, I did have four great sittings on two drives of leopard, and lions on a kill, rhino and a very large herd of elephants that surrounded our vehicle for at least 30 minutes. Then there was the morning coffee on the dam overlooking the hippos! I can't recommend Royal Malawene highly enough!

Unfortunately we had to leave and after a one hour drive arrived at nearby Timbavati Private Game Reserve bordering the Kruger National Park. Here there is an entrance fee of R90 per person and R 80 for the vehicle. Our first destination was a new lodge, Royal Legends just inside the main gate and the next day we moved over to one of my favorite safari camps, Tanda Tula.

Here we felt at home, this was my third visit to Tanda Tula which is about the nicest tented camp I have visited. As I know the General Manager, Brian, he offered to take us on the game drives himself and he is really very knowledgeable about everything from the animals,, birds, trees, plants and stars.

Upon arriving we had a terrific lunch and then a bit of a rest before we went out for the drive. We arrived at the beginning of an unusual cold front coming through from Cape Town and it was more than a little cold on the evening game drive but we had some nice sittings including lion and a couple of rhino that seemed to want to jump into the jeep. After a beautiful and very civilized sundowner of gin and tonics we proceed to freeze to death after dark but were welcomed by a wonderful dinner. Tanda Tula is owned by the same family that has Constantia Uitsig on the Cape Peninsula, where we would be visiting later, and which has one of the best vineyards and restaurants in South Africa so the wines were a very special treat.

So after probably more wine than we should have had, we were off to sleep where they had put heaters in the tent and hot water bottles in the bed so it ended up being fine. The tents at Tanda Tula are really about as luxurious as a tent can get.

Dinner was great and the next morning we had another freezing game drive but somehow Brian managed to find some game! I gather it had not been this cold in a very long time: global warming it was not!!

After breakfast we were off to the Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve and to Sabi Sabi Game Reserve. Sabi Sabi, perhaps the best know of the dozen or so over the top luxury lodges in the Sabi Sands, has four lodges. This was my third visit to Bush Lodge having visited Earth Lodge in 02. While Earth Lodge is considered the top of the line, Bush Lodge is so luxurious I can't imagine anyone needing more. The "rooms" are all suites with bedroom, sitting room, bath, deck, and patio and outdoor showers all overlooking the water hole in front of the lodge. We had some bushbucks on our deck when we arrived with a variety of plans game in the distance. They even have data ports now for the Internet. There is an Internet room if you don't come with your own laptop.

The main building has several lounges, the restaurant, bar and curio shop. There is a large outdoor boma for dinner, two swimming pools and a health spa.

Earth Lodge, which was closed for renovation, is completely different and described in an earlier newsletter from 02. The more authentic, Silati was also closed for renovation but the new addition, Little Bush Camp was open thought I didn't have a chance to visit. I believe it has 4 bedrooms and is rented to groups or families as an entire unit...

The cold made the game drives a bit of a challenge but we had a great lion sitting, tracked a leopard that the others had seen but we only managed to knock down half the bushes in Africa looking for it before finally having to give up.

The Sabi Sands has the best concentration of game anywhere in South Africa and normally sittings are really great. Despite the cold I think we had two really good drives with plenty of rhino, lions, elephants, almost a leopard and the usual variety of other game.

The next day we were off to Rhino Post Lodge in the Kruger Park. Rhino Post is one of the new private concessions in the Park and along with its satellite tented camp, Plains Camp, they offer the Rhino Tracking Walks. Rhino Post is a sort of combo tent and cabin and each unit overlooks the water hole in front. The main lodge has the bar and restaurant area and as with all game lodges, they offer evening and morning game drives as well as the walks from Plains Camp which is a true tented camp.

Due to the cold, we opted to drive in our rental car and not in the open land rover. We had to be back by 5:30 but it had been so cold the previous evenings we thought that was a fair trade off to not freeze to death. In any case, I really love to drive myself in the Kruger Park and see what I can find. Last year we spent 3 nights at different lodges in the park and saw great game driving between them. This time we drove down to Lower Sabi Gov't lodge which is located on the most beautiful part of the Sabi River. While the gov't lodges are a bit plain, they tend to have the most beautiful settings and Lower Sabi recently redid the restaurant which overlooks the river and makes a great place to stop for lunch. The drive down and back was really beautiful along the river and from the restaurant; there were several pods of hippo many of which were on the banks sunning themselves. There were also some large croc's lying around and several small antelope species that came down for a drink. We often see elephants or buffalo but this time just the hippos and croc's. We saw plenty of elephants going and coming along with the usual plains game and some lovely giraffe.

Back at the lodge, it was really freezing but after a glass of sherry by the fire, we had a terrific dinner in the enclosed dining room. It was a shame to end our trip to bush in such cold weather but we later found out it was the coldest in over 30 years...

The next morning we did a short morning drive and were off for the drive back to JoBerg and our flight to Cape Town. This time we drove up through the town of Sabie where we stopped for lunch and then on to the airport. The drive through the mountains is really quite beautiful and well worth the effort. If you can spend a couple of days there is lots to see and do and our long time client, Blue Mountain Lodge, is the place to stay.

Cape Town:

We arrived later that evening into Cape Town and proceed to our first stop, Winchester Mansions., a lovely hotel on the beach in Sea Point, an upscale area of Cape Town. The hotel has beautiful rooms overlooking the water, we actually had a two bedroom suite but all the rooms are beautiful. They also have a health spa, restaurant, bar and they are famous for the Sunday jazz buffet.

The next morning we headed off to explore the Cape Peninsula starting in Houts Bay which makes for a good lunch stop. Along the way we passed another of our clients, The Twelve Apostles, where we stayed last time, which has a fabulous spa and a beautiful setting along the ocean outside of Cape Town. We then proceeded up Chapman's Peak drive which is no doubt one of the most beautiful drives in South Africa. You end up about half way down the peninsula and as we had already been to the Cape of Good Hope on previous trips, we proceed to just drive up the coast, past one of my favorite vineyards and hotels, Steenberg and on to Constania where we had lunch and did some wine tasting at Grout Constantia, one of the most famous of the vineyards on the peninsula, along with Steenberg and our overnight destination, Constantia Utsieg. While we have often had the Constantia Utsieg wines (especially staying at Tanda Tula) and have had dinner at their award winner restaurant, La Coloumbe, we had never spent the night there and were quite looking forward to this.

The hotel is in the original cape Dutch style with lovely suites. As there are two restaurants there we decided to try the main one rather than La Columbe (which is French) and it turned out to be equally superb and perhaps more of a "happening" spot.

From here we were heading for some serious wine tasting (i.e. we would be drinking a lot!) and the next day proceeded to Stellenbosch which is in the heart of the Cape wine country. We stayed at another famous vineyard, Spier. Again, I had sampled many bottles of the wine but had not stayed at the hotel. The public areas are very modern and quite impressive. The rooms were spacious and well done overlooking a swimming pool for each group of rooms. The Village at Spier has three restaurants, a deli, bar, health spa and golf as well as a lovely picnic area and a cheetah and rapture research center. There is plenty to do there and it can be a bit touristy but we were on a wine tasting mission so we left Spier's wine's to the end and headed out late morning to visit several vineyards and have lunch.

We stopped several beautiful estates, including one of the most beautiful, Neueglans, nearby and eventually made to Seiderberg for lunch which is in the nearby area of Paarl. The view from the deck overlooking Table Mountain is superb. The restaurant is one of the best in the region and the owner/chief, Cass, makes a point of coming by and discussing her menu with you. The wines are excellent and it is a fabulous lunch experience. After lunch we revisited Fairlawn where we had been last year. This is also a not to be missed experience. The restaurant is a bit more casual then Seidleberg and Neueglans but perfect for a light or quick lunch. But the main attraction here is the wine and cheese. They have a large selection of wines most of which are named as a play on words such as Goat de Roam or Bored Doe. It sounds silly but the wines are not. As they also make their cheeses the tasting her is almost a meal. For R15 ($2.50) you get six wine tastings along with a variety of cheeses and olives. Certainly one of the best bargains in the wine country. We had hoped to head back to another of our favorite vineyards, Laborie which also has a great restaurant but it was getting late and we were getting a bit drunk!! So we headed back to Spier and a final tasting there before having dinner at the hotel. I can't say the meal was memorable but it was easy and we didn't want to get in the car and go out again.

The next day we had booked at another of the most famous and beautiful wine estates, this time in Somerset West, Verglaglan. The restaurant is perhaps the most famous of the Vineyard eateries and it is the only vineyard where you actually have to pay an admission fee just to get onto the property (R20 per person). But it is well worth it explore the grounds, taste the wine and have lunch...

After a bit of sightseeing we headed back and this time drove into Stellenbosch for diner tot a fabulous Italian/Mediterranean Restaurant and wine bar call, Viejiemn. While I had been several times in the Stellenbosh area and hotels and vineyards, I have never actually visited the town itself and was thoroughly surprised by the life and energy. It seemed a very "happening' place with several restaurants to choose from. Viligum had been recommended by the hotel and it was excellent.

From Stellenbosch we proceed to drive about one hour to Hermanus, well known as one of the most popular whale watching sites in the whole area. In the winter months the Southern Right Whales come in along this coast to mate and give birth. Unfortunately we were a bit early so there were no whales and Hermanus was a bit calm. Normally we come in August when it is packed so it was a pleasure to visit in such a quite period. Here we stayed at the sister property to our first safari lodge, Royal Malewane, a fabulous hotel called Birkenhead House. It may well be the most luxurious and well run hotel in South Africa. Guests are on a full board basis and literally everything is included and taken care of. The only extras are the spa treatments and from what the girls said, they were terrific. It is impossible to describe Birkenhead House so I can only suggest you look at the web site (we have them listed under golf, spa and city/town) and if possible go for a visit. (Upon returning to New York I saw it featured on a segment of "1000 Places To Go Before Your Die". But I think it might be better labeled "where you hope to go when you die!!") Last year I visited the 3d property in the group, La Residence in Franschook, near Stellenbosch where we had been the last few days and it was also superb. It has since closed and is reopening in a new location across the street and I am sure, knowing the owner, it will rival the best South African has to offer. The attention to detail and service, to say nothing of the food and wine is unparallel at Birkenhead House, as it was at Royal Malewane.

In the end no one wanted to leave the hotel but we had to move on and back to Cape Town for the night and our early flight back to JoBerg. For dinner we went to one of our favorite places, Baia, located in the V&A Waterfront which in my opinion is one of the top restaurants in South Africa.

Finally we had to head back to JoBerg for our return home. It is always a shame to have to leave South Africa.