Kenya Orphan Safari Trip

Having just returned from 5 weeks in South Africa (my second trip of the year) six weeks ago, I wasn't sure I'd be ready for another safari trip but a year ago my girlfriend, Linda, had taken it upon herself to start something she calls the "Big Sister Program" which has grown into getting all her girlfriends and any other female she could find (which now numbers in the hundreds!) to take on as a "little sister" one of the girls living in some orphanages that she has gotten involved with in Nairobi. As usual, if Linda gets involved, I am not far behind and this time I was asked to try and organize to take some of girls on safari.

In May we were able to send 3 of the girls along with one of the ladies that takes care of them to the Intrepid Siana Spring Camp in the Masai Mara using barter that we had with Heritage Hotels, that owns Siana Springs. It was such a big success that now others wanted to go and it turned out so did some of the "big sisters". So long story short, I organized two safari trips in October for two different groups of "big sisters' and various spouses, relatives and children along with 5 of the orphans.

Somehow it managed to grow from 2 orphans and four adults to 7 adults, two of their children and 5 orphans!!

As usual in Kenya, the trip began in Nairobi. I flew in a couple of days early to make sure everything was in order and to visit a new client, Palacena Suites. Palacena is set in a really lovely garden area just outside of town in a nice residential near the State House. It is an all suite hotel with satellite TV, terraces and broadband Internet. I was given the penthouse two bedroom suite which was so large I could never remember where I had left something! It had a kitchen the size of my apartment in Paris! Palecena is perfect to settle in before or after a safari or if you are coming for business. There is a small gym, a swimming pool and a very nice restaurant which attracts a substantial local crowed.

I then moved over to The Stanley where I had been many times and where the other guests were going to be staying. The Stanley is in the heart of the central business district and you can walk around shopping for souvenirs, provisions for the trip, etc. It is home to the famous Thorn Tree Cafe though the tree has been removed and there is a Thai restaurant about to open on the 1st floor as well as the famous Long Bar where all the great white hunters such as Hemmingway & Roosevelt hung out. The bar has been renovated and isn't quite as it was but still popular meeting spot in downtown Nairobi.

There is a lovely pool and restaurant on the 5th floor opposite the health club/spa. For business travelers, broadband is available in the Business center and WiFi in the guest rooms and public areas. There are numerous conference rooms of various sizes.

My guests arrived in Nairobi and we had dinner at the Muthianga Club made famous in Out of Africa as the bar that would not allow Karen Blixen in, and the next morning we were off on our safari to the Masai Mara. Part one of our adventure include an America couple who live in London and who did a trip to South Africa with us two years ago. The wife is one of the "big sisters" and at the end of the trip we visited one of the orphanages and met her "little sister".

Unfortunately they do not like to fly in small plans, so we had to drive. While I can't recommend this as an option due to the awful condition of the roads it does make it easy to go from camp to camp and destination to destination as most routes are not covered by plane unless you go back and forth to Nairobi. The roads are tortuous though every year you hear they are going to redo them, especially the one to the Mara. With elections coming up, maybe they will actually at least get started next year!!! So I would fly if you can, it is about $230 round trip and only takes 1 hour depending on where you get off. The planes make several stops at the different lodges in the Mara. On the plus side, if you can call it that, the drive does give you a chance to see the country which you obviously miss in a plane and the view of the Rift Valley is quite beautiful. The park entrance fee for most parks in Kenya is $40 per day for adults and $20 for children under 12.

Anyway, it was a pretty miserable drive to our first destination, Olonana Tented Safari Camp, about 6 hours over some roads, many of which didn't actually look like anything other than a tank should be using them. One even required a $10 toll to basically cross a farm that didn't have a road! But upon arrival, it was all worth while. Olonana, part of Sanctuary Lodges (owned by Abercrombie & Kent) turned out to be one the best place I have stayed in Kenya and certainly one of the best anywhere. The setting is spectacular on the Mara River about 15 minutes outside the nearest gate to the park. While we had our welcome drink a huge pod of hippos were bathing on the shore and eventually wandered back into the water. There is an outdoor lounge overlooking the river and all the tents face directly onto the river and have their own decks.

The tents are nicely done and fully equipped with proper toilets, shower, etc. The meals were wonderful and the staff went out of their way from the Manageress, Sean to the room boy to make sure everything was perfect. Olonana is one of those special places where they make it clear that the stay is about you and not them. On top of this our driver, Edwin, was one of the best I'd had and we were only the three of us in our vehicle. As were coming during the migration, we had some wonderful drives and sittings and despite my hundreds of previous game drives, each one proved special and something completely new. The camp has a lovely swimming pool, small curio shop and high speed Internet if you need to check your email.

After two days we moved over to Mara Intrepids Tented Camp, also owned by Heritage Hotels, which is located on the Tika River in the middle of the park. Being in the park is always better as you are already in the park when you start your drive. Night drives are not allowed so this way you have an extra half hour before having to be back at 6:30. The camp has a nice setting though not nearly as spectacular as Olonana. There are 30 tents that are currently undergoing renovation to bring them up to a very comfortable status. Just next door is the sister camp Mara Explorer which is somewhat more upscale and not doubt a good option if your budget allows it and they have space.

The bar and restaurant at Mara Intrepids is very nice and there is a large curio shop and conference room all of which surround the swimming pool. The meals are usually wonderful buffets. There is also high speed Internet. As our driver, James, was feeling underused, we let him take us on game drives rather than use the camp drivers and he was great. It turns out he used to be the head ranger at Mara Intrepid and this is his favorite camp in the Mara; it helped that he knew everyone there! The camp vehicles are small, open and well designed to see game. No doubt the rangers are excellent: James assured us he had trained them all and they clued him in all the latest sightings. Here also the drives were terrific and we ended up twice seeing the famous crossing of the Mara River by thousands of Wildebeest, Zebra and various other animals. We even saw a crocodile take down a Thompson Gazelle during the crossing.

There is no place like the Mara (or Serengeti) during migration and I can highly recommend coming in October rather than the usual season July-August. Lodges are full but you don't have the sea of minivans at each sitting (just a small lake)!!!

After 4 days in the Mara we set off for Lake Nakuru. Historically famous for being the home to a million pink flamingos, there have been conflicting reports over the past few years as to whether there were any left. I had been assured by a tour operator in Nairobi just before leaving that they were all gone and several reports I had read recently said the numbers were way down. Our guide, James, said not to worry, there were plenty of Flamingos and he turned out to be right!!

The drive was longer than I remember, about 5 hours, but offered some beautiful and fascinating scenery though over some really miserable roads!

Upon arriving at the Lake Nakuru National Park we headed straight to the Sarova Lion Hill Lodge where I have stayed twice before. It has a commanding position on a hill overlooking the lake and you do see in the background what looks like a sea of flamingos. The lodge itself is a series of cabins layered on the hill so everyone gets a view. The main building has a lovely bar area with large terrace overlooking the lake as does the restaurant. There is a swimming pool, massage services and high speed Internet. In the end, every lodge I visited had satellite Internet at prices ranging from $1 a minute at Olanana to 225 Shillings for 15 minutes (about $3.50) at most other places. The connection is not very fast but it usually works.

Lake Nakuru National Park is like entering a different world more reminiscent of a rain forest than the open plans of the Mara. The game life is not as prolific but there is plenty to see. We came across huge herds of buffalo and waterbuck, the usual impala and gazelles, zebra and eland, a leopard in a tree and a heard of 7 white rhinos grazing by the lake. And while the water level in the lake has seriously gone down in recent years, there are thousands if not hundreds of thousands of pink flamingos. The endless sea of pink makes the trip worthwhile for this alone. After the open heat of the Mara, it was also very pleasant to be in a more tropical climate. It even rained for about ten minutes during lunch and a bit in the evening was cool enough to require a sweater. You are at almost 6000 ft so it can be chilly in the evening or early morning.

Most visits to Nakuru are for a day going between the Mara and the Mt. Kenya region but I would suggest two days as you really need a full day in the park to go all the way around the lake. There are some wonderful spots to do a picnic and watch the Flamingos and lots of game to see that we missed.

Unfortunately we didn't have time for a second night and the next day headed off to the Laikipa area to Sweetwaters Tented Camp not far from the Mt. Kenya. Due to some tribal unrest, we had to make a rather long detour adding a couple of hours to the trip but you travel through some beautiful scenery with the Abadare Mountains on one side and Mt. Kenya on the other, surrounded by tea and coffee plantations.

Sweetwaters is an old farm converted into a wildlife area and provided the most authentic stay yet that would be reminiscent of old Kenya, somewhat like a setting from Out of Africa. Now run by the Serena chain it offers a series of very nice tents surrounding a water hole that teamed with life from waterbuck, to zebra, warthogs, giraffe, buffalo, etc. during the day and early evening. All of which can be seen from your tent, the restaurant or the viewing platform. There is also a swimming pool and full massage treatments are available as well as Internet and TV in the library.

In the afternoon we took a game drive where we saw some very large herds of the Reticulated Giraffe, quite different from the usual Massai Giraffe usually seen throughout Africa, there were the usually plains animals, lots of waterbucks, buffalo and elephant. There are lion and rhino but we didn't see any on our one drive. But they do have a "tame" black rhino that is kept in a rather large enclosure and you are welcome visit it, feed and touch and generally spend some "quality" time with it. It may sound zooish but I promise standing next to and feeding a large black rhino was for me a rather interesting experience: even our guide, James, wanted his picture taken for his children feeding a black rhino! This rhino was taken in as an orphan and never seemed happy when he was released so now they keep him at Sweetwater.

There is also a Chimpanzee sanctuary on the compound where they take in and raise chimps from various parts of Africa where they are hunted or otherwise orphaned. You can see them easily but they are in a large enclosure and unlike with the rhino, you cannot enter so it is a bit zoo like. You can also ride on some camels if you are in the mood!!

Sweetwater was a very pleasant surprise and I highly recommended it. As with every place we stayed, the buffets were really terrific and you just had to restrain yourself from eating too much.

From there we headed up to Samburu and Buffalo Springs National Reserves about 3 hours north. Samburu is the main park here but it is surrounded by Buffalo Springs and Shaba National Reserve. I had previously visited Shaba where Sarova has a beautiful lodge and was looking forward to seeing Samburu and Buffalo Springs. The entrance fee covers both parks (Shaba is a separate fee) which really are one park separated by a river which we crossed back and forth. We stayed at the Serena Samburu which is a lovely lodge overlooking the river. There is also the sister camp of Mara Intrepids (Samburu Intrepids which is a tented camp further up on the river.

At the Serena all the rooms overlooked the river and we had the occasional baboons and monkeys running around. The water level was dramatically reduced but we still managed or perhaps because of this, found lots of game along or in the river. Along with the usual impalas and gazelles there were lots of dic dics, the smallest of the antelope family and usually so shy you don't see them but here they were easy to see. There are also waterbucks and the Grevy Zebra which is quite rare and with a distinctly different striped pattern and a beautiful black mane on top. There is also the unique Genermauk which is a very slender antelope with a long giraffe type neck and they feed standing on their hind legs reaching up into the bushes a bit like a giraffe. Speaking of giraffe's, there are lots of Reticulated Giraffe's to be seen also.

We had several elephant sittings with herds of up to 25 or so and came across a beautiful full grown male and female lion that were blissfully eating a zebra they had killed earlier. A bit later we had a leopard that ran from under some bushes up a tree, as leopards are supposed to do for tourists, posed on a branch, came back down and hid in some bushes waiting to see how many of us would give up and leave (most did!) and then came out and posed between vehicles, eventually wandering off into the brush just after 6PM. As with most areas you cannot stay out after 6:30PM so we had to head back to the lodge.

The next day bough the same old stuff, more lions, elephants, buffalo, etc.!!!

Samburu is a fascinating change from most other parks and highly recommended. It is much hotter and arid than the other areas of Kenya that we visited but you do see some game not found elsewhere along with some very special sightings and you may actually end up using the lodge swimming pool as it is not very cold in the evenings so the water stays warmer.

From Samburu we headed back to Nairobi. We wanted to stop at the Mt. Kenya Safari Club for lunch but where told at the entrance we cold not come in unless we paid them an entrance fee of $10 per person. They then volunteered that this would be in addition to the $25 per person charge for lunch (not counting drinks). We decided that the combination of bad attitude and the cost of lunch for the three of us were worth skipping and we headed on to our last stop on this part of the trip, Mountain Lodge in Mt. Kenya National Park where lunch was already included and turned out to be excellent.

Mountain Lodge sits on the slopes of Mount Kenya and the drive in makes you feel like you are in the jungles of Uganda. The dense vegetation is right out of a Tarzan movie. The lodge is one of Kenya's three "tree lodges" sitting up high in front of a water hole. There are no game drives you just sit and watch for the animals to come out of the jungle to visit you. Each room overlooks the waterhole and there are various decks in the main building where you can have a drink and watch the action. There is also a tunnel that takes you to a 'hide" right at the edge of the waterhole for real close ups of the game. Mountain Lodge was recently renovated and is also now run by Serena.

The next morning finally headed back to Nairobi. We stopped on the way at village about 20 miles from town where one of Linda's orphanages was located and where my guest was a big sister to one of the girls. Linda met us in the village and we proceeded to visit the orphanage. After this we went to another orphanage in the upscale suburb of Karin where the Karin Blixen estate is located and where we were to meet the 5 orphan's girls we would be taking with us on safari. We were warmly greeted by the girls and some of the other "big sisters" who had, along with Linda, flown into Nairobi three days earlier to work with the girls. The girls put on a rather amazing show of singing and a play they had written and then we headed back to Nairobi and The Stanley. The next day it was back to the Masai Mara. This time the group had grown to 14: we had Linda, three "big sisters" and an assortment of husbands, nephews, children and 5 of the girls from the orphanage.

The first night we stayed again at Mara Intrepids and this time had some of the new tents which are really nice. Our first afternoon drive found elephants, cheetah, lion, buffalo and several hundred thousand wildebeests, zebras, gazelles and impala. Not to mention Topi, Eland and Waterbuck. Needless to say the girls where amazed. Even though they live in Nairobi, then had not seen game in the wild: this was really a chance for them to see their country and we hoped perhaps find some who might be interested in going into the hospitality industry when they finish school. I think they were equally amazed at the tents, the buffets and most of all, the swimming pool!! It is always amazing to see things through the eyes of children (even though I really hate kids!) but this was an amazing experience not only for the children but for the adults. These kids were seeing not only their first wild animals as were most of the adults, but their first private room (we put three in each) with a toilet and shower and they simply could not get over the food. The reaction to the swimming pool was altogether another story!!

On the next morning's drive we lucked out again by seeing another river crossing: I have been to the Mara at least 4 times before and never seen this and now I had seen it 3 times in one trip! This time we managed to hit it when the two migrations were going in opposite directions so we had the animals crossing one way to get to the Serengeti and another to get back to Loita Plains. Admittedly the animals gave the impression of being a bit confused but James assured us that they knew what they were doing. To top it off on the way back for breakfast we saw some black backed jackals and two caracal which are really rare especially in the daylight.

After breakfast we headed to a new lodge for two nights, the Mara Serena, on the other side of the Mara River set up on a hill with a commanding view of the Masai Mara and the river. Like most of the Serena group, this is a proper lodge and all the rooms overlook the plains and river offering an incredible panorama of Africa. Numerous animals tend to wonder up near the lodge. There is a lovely pool with a view to die for, massage treatments and Internet (sometimes!). While no doubt the "little sisters" loved and were amazed by the game drives, I think having a proper room and toilet was an equally big thrill and in the end, the swimming pool was the biggest hit. We really had to drag them away to go on a game drive or to meals. But the drives were amazing and they never quite knew what to do at the buffets.

On one drive we saw a cheetah with three cubs on a kill, and 100 yards away two lion on another kill and just behind a hyena and a dozen vultures on third kill. In the distance we saw some vehicles and drove over to find a large heard of elephant and buffalo up in the hills. After a while you simple cannot count the number of wildebeest, zebra, etc. Each drive holds something special and on the afternoon drive we again saw two cheetah on a termite mound, finally found a mother and baby black rhino, elephants, giraffe, buffalo, etc, etc. and a river scene with a huge croc staring at a poor wildebeest who had gotten stuck in the mud and could not move. One the way back it started to rain and we still came across three lions in the road obviously about to hunt.

We finally had to leave the Masai Mara. On our way to the gate we drove through most of the park and in addition to the "usual" stuff we actually watched a hyena take down a baby wildebeest!! Linda and one of the big sisters took the 5 orphans back to Nairobi and I continued with the others to Amboseli and Tsavo West. The drive back via Nairobi and then on to Amboseli makes for a long and awful day, though the lunch stop was great. Flying is no doubt the best option.

But we did arrive late afternoon in Amboseli which is also much different from the Mara. It is really flat and for the most part a big swamp. The main attraction here is the herds of Elephants and the fact that you are at the foot of Mt. Kilimanjaro. You see all the animals wondering around in the swampy water. On the way in we saw again herds of Wildebeest, Zebra, Thompson Gazelles, Impalas, Topi, buffalo and elephants. We also saw a crown crested crane for the first time which is really beautiful and happens to be the national bird of Uganda (but in Uganda they told us they were very rare and you never see them!!). We also saw the Yellow Baboon for the first time; the others are the Olive Baboons. There was even one Gerenuk (the antelope from Samburu that stands on its legs to eat.) There was a lion sitting in the distance but everyone was tired so we headed to the lodge and the swimming pool. Kilimanjaro, as usual was engulfed in clouds so we didn't get much of a view (nor had I on my three previous visits). Again we stayed at the Amboseli Serena which has lovely views overlooking the swamps and plains with several water holes nearby. There are some gardens below the bar area and a beautiful swimming pool along with an Internet room. Meals are either in the main restaurant or one night they did a bush barbeque for us in an open area just below the lodge.

Our first morning game drive was really beautiful. The contrast of the dry plains with the green swamp was fascinating. Large herds of plains game greeted us along with several large herds of Elephants some with babies as young as one month. But the main highlight of the morning was Kilimanjaro was more or less cloud free!! We had some great views which unfortunately showed how little snow is left on top. But in my opinion it made the long drive to Amboseli worthwhile. No doubt those in the balloon we saw felt they got their money's worth!!!

As a bonus we saw three lions and had a very quick glimpse of cheetah before it lay down in the grass. There were a few black backed jackals and a rare sighting of two bat eared foxes coming out of their hole. The bird life in general was far more than you see in the Mara and the various noises between the Zebra, Elephants and birds made the morning quite magical.

After breakfast the group went off to see a Masai village (this can also be done in the Mara but we just didn't get around to it). In the afternoon we went to Observatory Hill where you get a spectacular view of the park and the swamp below teaming with elephant, buffalo and assorted plains animals.

The next day we headed off to our last destination, Serena Kilaguni Lodge in Tsavo West. Tsavo was once known for its huge herds of elephants and the famous man eating lions of the film The Ghost and the Darkness but unfortunately both are a bit hard to find these days. The lodge itself has one of the most beautiful settings in all Kenya overlooking the mountains and a water hole that is light up at night allowing you to have a sundowner and watch the game come for a drink.

On our last trip to Tsavo we stayed at another camp in the area, Finch Hatton's, which is in my opinion the most camp in Kenya. Named after the great white hunter and lover of Karen Blixen (who wrote Out of Africa.) Fitch Hatton's is set around a pond full of hippos and crocks and you have them right on your tent step!!! At night you hear them wondering around outside so it is not a good idea to go for a walk!

Serena Kisangani evokes the feeling of a true safari "lodge" from the old days with high ceilings and a veranda overlooking the water hole. The rooms are all newly built little cabins also overlooking the water hole each with a private deck. There is a swimming pool, massage treatment center, curio shop and of course, Internet!

The game life in Tsavo is not as prolific as the other parks but the setting is really beautiful and it makes a lovely stop if you are driving (on a mostly new road) between Nairobi and Mombasa.

Finally it was back to Nairobi and on to UK or US for our "Big Sisters" and their families and on to London and World Travel Market for me. Linda headed to Dubai but that is another story!!